Ingredients

1 tablespoon each whole coriander, cumin, dill, and yellow-mustard seeds

2 tablespoons whole fennel seeds

1 tablespoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons sugar

1 whole four-pound side of salmon, skin on, small bones and excess fat removed

Olive oil

Spicy Cucumber Salsa

Preparation

Combine all seeds in a skillet over medium heat; toast, shaking pan, until aromatic, 4 to 6 minutes. Grind seeds coarsely in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl; add salt, pepper, and sugar.

Rub spice mixture into flesh side of salmon. Let stand 30 minutes; if not grilling right away, refrigerate, wrapped in plastic, for up to 2 days. Let salmon come to room temperature before grilling.

Heat grill to hot; coals should be glowing red, and rack should be very hot. Brush both sides of salmon and hot rack with oil. Grill salmon (if using a gas grill, close lid while cooking), flesh side down, until firm and slightly charred, 4 to 8 minutes. Carefully turn salmon using 2 large spatulas. Cook 4 to 6 minutes more, or until mostly opaque but slightly translucent and cooked through. Serve with cucumber salsa.