Ingredients

1 garlic clove, minced

3 tablespoons white or light miso paste

3 tablespoons sake

2 teaspoons mirin

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

8 calamari (bodies only), rinsed and dried

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar

Juice of 1 lime

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Coarse salt, to taste

3 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

5 celery stalks, halved lengthwise and sliced diagonally into 2 1/2-inch pieces

1 tart apple, such as Granny Smith, peeled and cut into matchsticks

2 scallions, white and pale-green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced into 2 1/2-inch matchsticks

3/4 cup sunflower sprouts

1 serrano chile, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced crosswise

1 teaspoon black sesame seeds

Preparation

Make the marinade: Cook garlic, miso, sake, mirin, soy sauce, and oyster sauce in a pan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Let cool slightly.

Using a kitchen mallet, pound both sides of calamari a few times to tenderize. Insert a sharp knife into calamari, cut along seams, and then open like a book. Lightly score inner sides at 1/4-inch intervals. Add calamari to marinade, and let stand for 20 minutes.

Make the slaw: Whisk together ginger, vinegar, lime juice, sugar, and salt. Add oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking until emulsified.

Preheat grill to medium-high. (If you are using a charcoal grill, coals are ready when you can hold your hand 5 inches above grill for just 3 to 4 seconds.) Wrap 3 bricks or the bottom of a heavy skillet with heavy-duty foil. Remove calamari from marinade, and season scored sides with salt. Place calamari, scored sides down, on grill, and top with foil-lined weight. Grill until opaque, about 1 1/2 minutes. Cut into 3/4-inch-wide pieces.

Toss celery, apple, scallions, sprouts, and chile with 3 tablespoons dressing (reserve remaining dressing for another use). Arrange on a platter. Top with calamari, and sprinkle with sesame seeds.